Dr. N.N. Mahapatra, C. Col FSDC (U.K), C Text FTI (Manchester), Senior Member AATCC (USA), FIE, FIC, FTA (India) is currently working as Vice-President, Business Development at Colorant Limited. He is also Vice Chairman of The Textile Association (India)-Central Office. He is working as Chairman cum Treasurer of Textile Institute (TI) Western India Section as well. He is one of the overseas technical expert team members of Bangladesh Textile Today (BTT). Recently he visited Bangladesh and talked with BTT regarding different issues. Dr. Mahapatra is a true professional having long 29 years of working experiences in different areas of the sector. Principally he is a textile chemist having expertise in stock dyeing, dyestuffs & chemicals used in the textile wet processing industries. Along with his jobs he continued to do research & write articles to disseminate knowledge, So far He has contributed more than 177 papers in textile journals, having international circulation and presented more than 20 technical papers in various seminars.
BTT: As you are working with a renowned dyestuff manufacturing company now, how do you see the market of reactive dye in Bangladesh?
Dr. Mahapatra: Reactive Dyes market in Bangladesh has gone through a phenomenal growth during the last decade. For the cotton knitwear industry in Bangladesh, Reactive Dyes are almost the only colour being used in fabric dyes by exhaust dyeing method.
At present, we can see all the well known companies from China, Korea, India and Europe are having presence in the Bangladesh market. However, with the time the selection criteria of dyes [among Reactive Dyes] have been changed during the last 10 years. It was primarily the cost and regular fastness properties, but now more and more brands are already have come into Bangladesh market and have created awareness among the buyer regarding their respective protocols for their articles.
Now the selection criteria began with the fastness properties [as per the protocols] and then moving to cost comparison among the available choices.
We feel that this trend will pick up the momentum and high end Reactive Dyes will have more demand in the market.
The textile industry in the Bangladesh is growing and so we accept that the demand for Reactive Dyes will grow simultaneously. The technical advancement in the dyeing machinery has also compelled the technicians to select the dyes on the basis of their suitability with the technology they are using.
In short, we see an excellent future for Reactive Dyes in the Bangladesh market.
BTT: What are major developments reactive dyes have encountered recently?
Dr. Mahapatra: The developments in the field of Reactive Dyes are focused on achieving special properties or the suitability to achieve specific shades and fastness properties. With the introduction of fluorine chemistry in Reactive Dyes, it has become possible to achieve much higher level of light fastness in pastel and light shades with excellent alkaline perspiration fastness properties.
The known brands are Novacron FN/C from HUNTSMAN and Colron CN from COLORANT. Further modifications have come through the chemistry which has made it possible to produce medium and deep shades with high light and alkaline perspiration fastness properties. These dyes are Novacron CS [HUNTSMAN] and Colron CS [COLORANT].
The introduction of polyfunctional dyes has made dyeing of deep and extra deep shades an easier task then before for the dyers because of its higher solubility and build up properties. Everzol ED, Novacron S and Colron SD are few examples.
Avitara dyes from HUNTSMAN are introduced offering reduced dyeing and washing off cycle to a great extent.
BTT: Being a stock (fiber) dyeing specialist, how do you see the trend of it?
Dr. Mahapatra: In India it is very popular .It started in the year 1968-69. On that basis dyed fibre spinning is also very popular in India. I was heading the biggest fibre dyeing unit ( 2004-2009 ) having a capacity of 80 tons /day. We used to dye polyester loose fibre, acrylic loose fibre and cotton loose fibre . After the fibre is dyed, it is blended at blow room and dyed spun yarn is made. For example the popular blends running in India are for suiting material it is polyester/viscose blends 65/35 or 70/30 blends. Here in India normally viscose is not stock dyed, instead it is dope dyed (pigments are added in the viscose polymer manufacturing stage). Same is the procedure for dyed shirting p/v yarn .Such types of fibre dyed yarn are exported to US, Europe,
Middle East and South America. Spun dyed finished fabric is also exported. Another popular blend in India is a blend of Polyster/Acrylic dyed yarn with hosiery twist. It is used in Knitting and making of T shirts, Sweaters, Track Suits etc having good export market. Besides 100 % Acrylic fibre dyed yarn are also made which are used to make sweaters. Similarly 100 % dope dyed viscose staple fibre dyed are used in making carpet yarn and export to Italy, Belgium ,Iran etc. A very popular area is 100 % dyed cotton mélange yarn having huge potential. Cotton loose fibre is dyed and mixed in blow room along with grey cotton to make the mélange yarn having good export market.
BTT: Do you see Bangladesh can go for more fiber dyeing industries?
Dr. Mahapatra: For Bangladesh fiber dyeing industries will have a new introduction. The main advantage for fibre dyed yarn and fabric is less lot to lot shade difference. You can dye any fibre in the same cotton yarn dyeing machine (with a separate fibre carrier). All the batches will be mixed together in blow room and you will get one shade .The mixing quantity starts from 500 kgs to 20,000 kgs in one lot. The fabric which will be made out of this fibre dyed yarn, there won’t be any shade variation from batch to batch ( as in yarn dyed fabric or grey fabric dyed ). Beximco is dyeing cotton fibre only and making dyed cotton mélange. The other fibres like polyester, acrylic, viscose, tencel can be dyed and blended together and make yarn. Besides knits a new area for export can be started in poly/viscose yarn ( for shirtings and suitings) and polyester/acrylic blends for making t-shirts, track suits and 100 % acrylic for sweaters. 100 % dope dyed or own dyed viscose ( for sarees and dress materials).
Main problem will be the import of the fibres. The Bangladesh Government should relax the duty on importing various manmade, natural and synthetic fibres, then only Bangladesh can compete in the world market for various types of fibre dyed yarn and fabric. Besides cotton knits, these area will be a new opening to earn more foreign currencies
BTT: As the chairman cum treasurer of The Textile Institute (TI) Western India Section, how do find TI’s contribution for the professionals?
Dr. Mahapatra: In today’s business and professional world, access to current information and contacts is essential for success. The Textile Institute is the only organization that covers the entire global industry from fibres to retailing, from engineering to fashion, from Australia to Zimbabwe. The network of contacts gives you immediate access to state of the art information. Membership serves as recognition of your professional achievements and your desire to conduct business at the highest ethical standards. Textile Institute (Manchester) since last few years back they have started 4 sections in India. Like in North India, West India, East India and South India. Over the years the sections have become good networking platforms in India. Once you become a member, you will be given a user ID and password for surfing the Textile Institute website and study the literatures available for new textile product development.
BTT: As you are the Vice-Chairman of Textile Association (India), what are the core activities TAI is doing know?
Dr. Mahapatra: The Textile Association (India) is the foremost largest textile professional body of India, striving for the growth of India’s largest single textile industry and also largest in the world textiles. It is established before 73 years in the year 1939 with 126 founding members and as on today the association has more than 23000 strong memberships with 26 affiliated units, spread throughout the length and breadth of the country.
The Textile Association (India) provides for professional growth of technologists managers, traders, researchers, entrepreneurs, teachers and consultants on the Indian textile scene. It caters to the needs of all fibers, products and all sectors of the Indian industry. TAI organizes Seminars, Conferences, Workshops, Refresher Courses and Exhibitions of textiles and allied machines for the benefits of the members serving the textile industry. These activities are held throughout the country with the help of all 27 federal units, which are autonomous in the activities. In the year 2012, TAI was in association partner an international conference here in Dhaka organized by Bangladesh Textile Today.
BTT: Thank you