|This article is a continuation of previous issues “The Denim Trends” article. Md. Foysal Rabby, Research Assistant at BTT has developed this write up on the technical input of Mr. Maherul Islam Sohel, Fabric Technologist, Kenpark Bangladesh Ltd on the recent publications of Première Vision.|
Denim is a typical fabric which can be used throughout the year, but its style varies with seasons. Denim by Première Vision welcomed for its 9th edition on 30 November and 1 December 2011 in Paris. A selection of 81 international premium denim exhibitors (up 15.7% over December 2010) showed off collections, innovations and special events in front of a flow of visitors all of whom were looking forward to exploring the future of denim for spring-summer 2013.
Bangladesh is one of the largest denim manufacturers in the world and still working only on the regular commodity styles. Some factories like Shasha Denims & Partex Denims are doing some developments but still to be transformed in to higher-end products. Brief introduction of the future trends show cased in the global platform will help this industry to move forward with a positive vision to production of value added trendy fabric.
Over the two days of the exhibition, a total of 2,552 buyers, designers and the denim makers were present. The show’s international visitors were quick to point to the show’s broad, varied and high- quality offer to explain their interest in Denim by Première Vision, noting an offer that was not only European but also global.
With the view of Première Vision the following styles came forward with their different particulars.
Blues in Brilliant and Faded Tones:
Blues are in trend very strongly with both bright brilliant and faded notes:
- Bright, intense blues are a vivid summer alternative to regular indigo. These brilliant colours include red-cast, purplish and green tinted aqua shades in indigo variations and sulphur blues.
- Most of the cases this blues/Indigo is used as fabric coating.
- Black or coloured wefts also add colour depth.
- Base fabrics are tightly constructed and dense, used in both rigid menswear denims and lighter-weight stretch denims with sheen and surface lusture for the ladies wear.
- With the side of Bright notes, faded deep blue sailors blue also in the trend show case.
- An Indigo with some black and then heavy wash work with an oriental work wear and nautical heritage.
- Sometimes indigo dyed wefts are used to give the impression of a piece dye, yet behave as a yarn dye in laundry and finishing treatments.
Visitors are examining Blue denim with different effects
Some Premiere Vision Blue Denims:
Fluoro coloured Denim:
For customers as an alternative of blue, vivid intense bright colors are also in trends for both men’s and women`s wear. These colors are achieved by different way like:
- coloured coatings.
- Garment over dyeing with reactive dyed on ecru or PFD denim is another potential way to get this color which also meets the flexibility of wide range of color and also save the time.
- Cotton warp and polyester weft fabrics are also interpreted in vivid shades for yarn dye effects.
- Apart from cotton, tencel and light, supple-base fabrics are also use for this kind of fashion product.
Fluro coloured denim at the show
- The pale shade fabric manufacturers, who are using low concentration indigo, can achieve a pale shade very easily.
- Grey-cast blues in paler tones look strong for men’s jeans wear.
- Robust in construction yet refined and dense is very interesting for this kind of product.
Colored & fancy Back:
This story has been building for several seasons, to the extent that for spring/summer 2013, all exhibitors showed a version of denim that is either reversible, has weft yarn interest, or is treated on the back of the fabric.
- Apart from the using different colored weft some manufactures are using over dyeing, color coating on the back side.
- Some of the manufacturers are also using colored mélange yarn to give a distinct look.
- Some of them even using for Silver lurex also.
In the movement of innovation for something new, along with the 3x1and 2×1 twill other weaves like canvas, herringbone and textured fancy weaves coming popular in trends.
- It adds new character and structure on denim.
- Some neppy and texture yarn also come in to play in this range.
Linen and Neppy yarn for rustic vintage
Linen content denims and rustic neppy yarns are used to give more texture and robust handle to this denim family
- Left hand twills and more even cross-hatching adds to the authenticity of the character,
- Indigo is always dark with a high dye saturation for this kind of product to give the contrast and rustic look.
Denims in Lighter weight:
Lightweights continue strongly, popular for their fashion flexibility and styling potential, particularly for the women’s market. And especially for Spring Summer it is coming more strong.
- 8 and 9 oz weights are now more acceptable for jeans while the more light weight 4-6 oz fabrics are interesting for tops and shirting.
- Fibres are frequently Tencel or Viscose, but Pima long staple cottons and combed yarns are also used to give smoothness, fluidity and sophisticated lusture.
- Plain and 2×1 twill is very popular for this kind of light weight fabric
Soft/fluid/ Lusture with Tencel:
Soft and fluid lusture is always in trend for the spring summer. Though Denim is tough fabric but by using yarn like Tencel, and the similar family of manmade cellulose fibres such as Excel, denim can be converted in to fluid lusturous fabric.
- Tencel is now rightly seen as having strong sustainability credentials.
- The softness, comfort and skin-friendly nature of these fibres has appeal in medium to light weights for shirting, shorts, soft jeans, dresses and skirts in both stretch and rigid forms.
- Double-twisted Tencel warp and cotton weft also can be very interesting.
Plain panama and canvas weaves stand out against the regular 3×1 twills to give a new textured look in denim for both shirt and bottom weights.
- It can be different cast like green, Indigo and ecru.
- Wash down with tint can give a very rustic look/ defined look due to more interlacement in warp and weft. Sometimes it gives a fashionable work wear looks.
The stretch trends in denim shows no sign of slowing, and is seen in fabrics engineered for men’s and for women’s jeans.
- Weavers showed examples of their stretch offering in high-cover factor sateen weaves.
- Due to Sateen weave fabric showing excellent colour density and light-reflection.
- These fabrics offer up to 50% extension and excellent recovery from yarns containing core spun T400 and Lycra.
- Some of the manufacturer using T400 and Lycra use simultaneously covered with cotton (Dual FX) for high stretch recovery.
Knitted denim is moving strongly in denim trend especially for women wear due to flexibility in movement and comfort next to the skin.
- Apart from regular indigo, different kind color with wash down effect is getting popular.
- Some of the manufacture like Isko, ITV and Orta have developed pioneering and novel weaving methods to create denims with a knitted character, aspect and handle.
Fig: Mens Knit denims
Denim for tailoring/ Formal Look:
A more recent direction for denim is to use as sophisticated/formal couture areas, aiming at new markets, who likes clean surface.
- Normally it is dense warp faced fabric, so that it can give a more cleanly surface and even light reflection comparing to regular denim contrast surface.
- Combed yarns and deep colour, Longer staple cottons and refined yarns, polyester and Tencel fibres all can produce a clean, smart fabric as well as better handle with low wash.
- These are normally light weight to Medium weight fabric.
- Sateen weaves can be preferable weaves for this kind of fabric though 2×1 and 3×1 is also used for this kind of fabric.
- Deep colored resin-coated surface is also very interesting for this kind of product.