We have discussed the importance of cotton selection, selection process and major cotton origins. Today we would discuss cotton parameters in relation to the selection of cotton.
Cotton has many parameters to consider while reviewing any cotton. Some of those parameters are major and enforceable through contracts while some are not enforceable. However, the most important thing is to put the clauses into black and white. But as cotton is a natural commodity any clause mentioned in the contract should be mutually acceptable and reasonable. Becoming too much contract oriented makes an unpleasant situation and not at all advisable.
It is the beauty of the cotton trade of mutual trust and confidence. Buyer and sellers’ complete knowledge of each origin is very important in avoiding any misunderstanding. For example, if anyone buys Indian organic or Pakistani cotton and expects zero contamination is completely out of wisdom. Or if anyone buys Sudanese cotton and expects no honeydew is expecting something out of the world.
Let us first list the major cotton parameters:
|Contractually enforceable||Contractually non-enforceable|
|Grade||Immature fiber content (IFC)|
|Micronaire||Short fiber content (SFC)|
|Strength||Seed coat neps|
Importance of the above parameter would vary from process to process (ring, rotor, air-jet), from knitting to woven, course to medium to fine count, combed or carded, compact or non-compact, sustainable or conventional, handpicking or machine picking, saw ginning or roller ginning, etc.
Since there can be a wide variety of requirements on quality and customer needs it is very difficult and not appropriate to suggest any parameter for any mill. The best is to analyze the individual mill condition and select a parameter of any origin for any particular line.
Since the majority of Bangladeshi spinning mills are producing medium count knit carded yarn, and course count open-end yarn, some general guideline on parameters are mentioned below:
|Cotton parameter||Medium count ring knit yarn||Course count open-end woven yarn|
|Staple length||1-3/32” to 1-1/8”||1” to 1-1/16”|
|Micronaire||3.8/4.9 NCL||3.5/4.9 NCL|
|Strength||28 GPT||24 GPT|
|Crop year||To be mentioned||To be mentioned|
|Quantity||To be mentioned||To be mentioned|
|Shipment||To be mentioned||To be mentioned|
|Contamination||To be mentioned|
|Moisture content||For Indian and Pakistani cotton||For Indian and Pakistani cotton|
|Honeydew||Better to avoid such origins||Better to avoid such origins|
|Remarks||Better to avoid such bales||Better to avoid such bales|
|Trash content||For Indian/ Pakistani cotton||For Indian/ Pakistani cotton|
|Immature fiber content (IFC)||N/A||N/A|
|Short fiber content (SFC)||N/A||N/A|
|Seed coat neps||N/A||N/A|
To optimize parameters, detailed information is very important and should be selected line wise. Larger a spinning mill can optimize better as they have different lines that require different parameters of cotton. Spinning mills with one or two lines should be very cautious and conservative on the selection of cotton parameters and origins.
Since it is a matter of experience and expertise, mills can seek the service of a consultant.
To be continued……